Hello all,
Have been through my photos briefly and prepared a few of the species we saw on our trip to Montenegro, from 10th - 16th June 2012. I'm sure there will be better ones uploaded here by a certain Mr Lambourne, but in the meantime have a look at a few of mine.
Because our group (of mixed nationalities, but mainly English) had a range of specialisms, we spent time trying to see birds, dragonflies, orchids and butterflies as well as herps. Paul and I had been to the Balkans in 2011, at the end of April, and had been succesful in terms of species numbers. However, we missed some of the specialities, so this time we concentrated on those. Our main targets were Four-lined snake (Elaphe quatuorlineata), Sharp-snouted,Mosor and Proteklije rock lizards (D oxycephala, mosorensis and montenegrina), and of course the local subspecies of Meadow viper V. ursinii. It is very pleasing to report that only the last eluded us, and this because our sites were not as specific as for the other species.
We flew into Dubrovnik and had a slow and long journey to Ulcinj, where we spent our first two nights. Next morning we searched the area around Ulcinj and Ada, where our eyes were somewhat distracted by the local holiday makers! Well, we are only human, and it is a nudist beach!
In addition, we found V ammodytes, P muralis and our first target - a massive E quatuorlineata, plucked from under a mattress by Mr Lambourne himself, who was really rather pleased with himself!
- The first target, a 170cm approx male Elaphe disturbed from its sleep under a mattress.
Greek slow worm and Grass snake were also seen, and for the non-herpers, many Red-rumped swallows and a few Olivaceous warblers, along with Southern migrant hawker and Eastern willow spreadwing for the birders and Dragonfliers. I had a new Orchid in the form of a beautiful Anacamptis palustris.
- Nice new Orchid, the graceful Anacamptis palustris
We headed north to Lake Skadar, such a beautiful area and one which would really merit a whole week to itself. In this case our target was D oxycephala, and after some confusion over the location of these, we scored a nice one which kept popping his head out form between rocks (at distance, which is my excuse for the poor photo). After this, the Herpers went off to another site nearby and got many more of these, including the dark form. This second site was covered in the skeletons of young gulls which were breeding on the rocks but hadn't made it, a macabre bejewelled backdrop for the lizards. But target number two well and truly under the belt on the first day!!! A good start!
- Apalling picture of Sharp-snouted rock lizard
We journeyed back towards Ulcinj, seeing another of my Orchid targets - the wonderfully graceful and stinky Balkan lizard orchid, Himantoglossum caprinum. Much more colourful than the one we get back home, and only seen as rosette last year.
- Balkan lizard orchid
Frustratingly, we were seeing a few of our much-wanted dragonfly, the Bladetail, but they just weren't settling. Argghh!
The second day we split up, with the non-herpers going birding to the Salt-pans near Ulcinj (a very entertaining exercise trying to gain access to this commercial area), where we saw Rollers, many waterbirds (including over 300 distant Greater flamingos) and a nice colony of Collared pratincoles
- Collared pratincole - not named after me!
Nearby we took a wrong turn but found lots of Dragonflies by a wooded stream, including another of our targets, the Balkan Emerald. Nice!
- Abnother target species in the bag!
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Our route took us north to Podgorica, where we were to meet a birding guide to try for my nemesis, the Rock Partridge. This is a bird I have tried to see on many a mountain, but always failed, despite having come extremely close sometimes. I'm beginning to think they don't actually exist at all!! On the way we explored the shores of Lake Skadar, seeing a whole host of birds, dragonflies and butterflies, but not many herps. The star species was a large orange and brown butterfly, seen in numbers flying around the Willow trees, which turned out to be Freyer's purple emperors - a species which should not even be in this area according to the book!! However, my poor photo confirms the record. In addition, a nice male Black pennant, a dragonfly with a very restricted range, showed itself well, but proved to be the only one of the trip.
- A great surprise, but difficult to photograph. Freyer's purple emperor.
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Our evening visit to the Rock partridge site did produce some nice birds in a rare steppe grassland habitat - Calandra and Short-toed larks, Black-headed bunting. In addition, we finally managed to ge tup close and personal with the stunning Bladetail. What a dragonfly!!!! Our guide feared the end of this habitat within ten years, though, due to farming development. It is a former military practice zone, hence the untouched steppe grassland, but now neighbours a Kosovan refugee camp. Nice!
- Not a herp, but still a stunner!
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The Rock partridges failed to oblige, despite our guide's comment that there were up to 30 there in the winter!!!!
To bed in a nice Hotel in Podgorica, in anticipation of a bit more Herping action the next day....
Day three saw us head north east into the Proteklije National Park, a beautiful mountainous area full of wonderful views and wildlife. More Balkan lizard orchids, as well as other species, and a nice Syrian woodpecker at the nest, kept our mouths watering as we headed for our D montenegrina site. There was a bit of cloud, but it was still nice and warm in the mid-morning sun. A lot warmer than last year when we passed snow to get to the site and therefore failed miserably.
Just short of the site we stopped for some Orchids, and I happened to point out a nice vertical rock face to my new Austrian friend, Florian. He said it looked good for montenegrina, so we all headed down to check. Within two minutes our question, and prayers, were answered when two of the little critters scurried about nicely, right in fornt of our faces, in and out of the rock face. Target number three and a really subtle but beautiful little beastie.
- Proteklije Rock Lizard. Beautiful
The next few hours were spent admiring the numerous Butterflies, birds and Orchids around Lake Bukumir. Tree frogs crawled around the shores and dragonflies were emerging from exuviae in the grassy edges. Another new orchid for me was the pretty Dactylorhiza sambucina, Elder-flowered orchid. Common in many mountain ranges of Europe, but I've never been in the right area at the right time.
- Elder-flowered orchid, yellow form. Also available in salmon pink.
For the herpers - indeed everyone with an eye for something scary but beautiful, two ammodytes were found, a well-fed standard coloured male and a rather attractive brown female.
- I know the blades of grass somewhat spoil the picture, but I wasn't about to remove them!
We were to head to Durmitor National Park and faced something of a drive - especially as we were going to try to get into Albania first, for some of those who wanted to add a new country to their list! The two cars split and we headed acros extremely rough roads, ever higher into the mountains, and ever more slowly, until a forest road finally defeated our Opel Zafira's maximum clearance. With regret, and less than a kilomere from the border, we turned back and headed for Zablijak, where we to spend the night. Another long drive in the gathering darkness and a quick meal and beer before crashing gratefully into bed. This was to be the norm for our trip - long intense days, a long drive to the Hotel, and a short sleep til the next morning's excusrions, all with great anticipation.
In part two, we aim for our last two target herps and I get a surprise bird to make my trip a truly outstanding one!!!
At least I was was on hand to protect you from the scary geckos