An early family holiday this year because one of our team members is a big boy now and obliged to attend school. So we were bound to the easter holidays. For some obscure reasons Jesus had to die early this year so we decided to venture as far south as possible and we chose southern Portugal as our destination.
We flew from Düsseldorf to Lisbon on the 29th of March and immediately drove to our base camp in the center of the algarve region. We made our home in a small farm house for the next 9 days on a camping site near the town of São Marcos da Serra.
The next day we explored the environments. Nice scenery but it was unseasonably cold because of a strong northern wind. Something that wouldn't change for the rest of our stay. Apparently it had been a quite dry winter. The first reptile was found right next to the house under a stone: Maria’s Worm Lizard (Blanus mariae). Followed by a few Moorish Geckos (Tarentola mauritanica).
view from the house
Blanus mariae
Tarentola mauritanica
In high spirits we started the first search. We followed a small stream, in which we found some tadpoles of Natterjack Toad (Epidalea calamita) and Iberian Midwife Toad (Alytes cisternasii) and we saw some Iberian Water Frogs (Pelophylax perezi). Reptiles were scarce. Two Moorish Terrapins (Mauremys leprosa) dove straight into the water when we noticed each other. One juvenile Algerian Psammodromus (Psammodromus algirus) was spotted and the first snake was seen. It was definitely a Natrix but I'm not sure of the species. If I had to guess, I'd say an Iberian Grass Snake (Natrix astreptophora).
In the afternoon we visited some castle ruins. 5 more Worm Lizards and again a juvenile Algerian Psammodromus were found.
On Thursday we couldn't wait anymore to go searching for one of the main goals of the trip: Mediterranean Chameleon (Chamaeleo chamaeleon).
Even Elfie was very eager to see them again, they are her favorite reptiles.
We headed for the mediterranean Coast near Faro.
First we had a look at a fresh water pond, packed with terrapins. Three species were easy to spot: European Pond Terrapin (Emys orbicularis), Moorish Terrapin and the exotic Red-eared Slider (Trachemys scripta). They are accustomed to tourists so not shy at all.
The 3 species together with an odd duck
Emys orbicularis + Mauremys leprosa
Emys orbicularis
Emys orbicularis + Mauremys leprosa
Right next to it I searched the bushes for about half an hour before finding the first chameleon.
chameleon in situ
Paco and Ben's first encounter with these magnificent animals!
After some admiring we put him back at his spot and he gave us a really cool pose to say goodby.
We left that place because we didn't feel quite at home there between the poshy golf resort tourists and drove west to Lagos.
Better views there on the sandstone cliffs.
Elfie proved her skills by finding us another chameleon.
These were the only reptiles seen that day, not even a tail of other reptile species, so we were extremely efficient in reaching our main goal.
On to the next desiderata: I missed out on a few species like Iberian False Smooth Snake (Macroprotodon brevis) on previous trips to Spain. Carrapateira is a known place where it occurs so we spent a day there.
We parked at the area near the river mouth and crossed the beach to start searching the dunes and try to find that nice place where everybody seems to find snakes.
Sorry, weirdo spoiling an empty beach.
Again not much lizard activity. During a whole day of walking we only saw about 4 lizards: 1 unidentified, 2 Algerian Psammodromus and 1 Western Psammodromus (Psammodromus occidentalis) which ofcourse was too quick to photograph.
But the "snake spot" gave me what I needed the most: Iberian False Smooth Snake:
First a juvenile close to shedding:
Herping can get you dirty!!!
And then an adult Macroprotodon:
At the same spot we also found a subadult Bedriaga's Skink (Chalcides bedriagai).
A good day, topped of with a bare foot run in the Atlantic Ocean for some of us and an icecream ofcourse!
Saturday we drove again to the Atlantic coast, a bit further north to a place known for Carbonell's Wall Lizard (Podarcis carbonelli).
Still cold windy weather but a lot of sunshine, you would think that would be perfect for lizards. Next to the beach a first lizard was spotted by Elfie. I rushed over to find again a juvenile Algerian Psammodromus.
We hiked the beautiful cliffs towards another beach. Saw one more lizard and a few tracks. On the way back, Ben turned over a stone next to the road in the gutter and a lizard ran from under it into a big bush. Elfie said: "bwa it was probably not the one you were looking for, it was just little and green". Hmmm, that might have been just the one!!! A tiny bit frustrating.
No Ben, stones are there to turn, not to pile!
Back at the car I made a final search on a northern slope and found quite some lizard tracks. I would have to return there earlier in the morning...
In the late afternoon we visited a big pond that almost was dried out near Vales.
I found a lot of tadpoles of various species like Iberian Newt (Lissotriton boscai), Sharp-ribbed Newt (Pleurodeles waltl), Southern Marbled Newt (Triturus pygmaeus), Western Spadefoot Toad (Pelobates cultripes), Stripeless Tree Frog (Hyla meridionalis), ... but not a single adult. No time for pictures.
Under a rusty barrel at the side I found a Viperine Snake (Natrix maura) due for a shed.
In the evening Paco and I went to shine our flashlights at a small wall near the house and found some Moorish Geckos
On Sunday, while smoking my morning cigarette, my curse was lifted. I turned the last remaining small stones close to the house that I had left unturned. And finally caught the snake species I've seen at least 6 or 7 times before but which I never even could get a lousy picture from!: Western Montpellier Snake (Malpolon monspessulanus).
Woooow, I love this species, even if it is just juvenile!!!
That saved the day because for the rest of the day we explored the central Algarve a bit more. Made some nice walks in between olive trees and stone walls, perfect herp habitat. But we only came up with a few juvenile Algerian Psammodromus, a single juvenile Moorish Gecko, another Worm Lizard and some Water Frogs.
At night I explored a small pond close to the camp site, and immediately found out why I hadn't heard any amphibian calls from this place. It was full of pumpkinseed fish (Lepomis gibbosus). Nevertheless next to the pond sat a single Iberian Painted Frog (Discoglossus galganoi)
The following morning Elfie got severely sick with some kind of stomach flew or food poisoning. It was so bad that the next two days she couldn't even leave the house. So we were a bit stuck. Monday was also a very bad day weather wise: rain and strong wind. In the afternoon Paco and I drove up in to the mountains of Serra do Monchique to turn stones in search of Fire Salamander (Salamandra salamandra crespoi). We got soaking wet and in two hours we only found one freshly metamorphosed salamander under a rock. A very small success.
After dark I just had to go out, because this was the only chance to find some more amphibians. Ofcourse after dark the rain stopped and we got a clear sky. Typical. I did the same walk as during our first day. I found two Iberian Midwife Toads. They were not calling, just sitting there with their sad faces.
I got to the road, higher up and to my big surprise in the middle of the road in between dry ditches sat this:
A whole afternoon turning stones in perfect habitat and then you find it where you would least expect it .
A bit further I heard calls from Tree Frogs. I followed the sound and discovered a very nice pond.
Apart from Stripeless Tree Frog, I also saw Southern Marbled Newt swimming. A new species for me but I forgot to bring my net.
The next day, I took the boys out for a walk so mommy could rest. We went back to the pond. And quite fast I found what we were looking for in my net: Southern Marbled Newt.
Sorry, Newt photography is not my cup of tea.
In the evening Paco and I discovered an old water hole near the camp site. Inside we found a Fire Salamander and a Common Toad (Bufo bufo) trapped. We managed to rescue them. They look bad but they were moving fine so I think they will make it.
On Wednesday Elfie felt a bit better so we could venture out again. We went back to the Atlantic coast to find those carbonelli’s. This time a bit earlier. I searched for an hour and found 4 lizards. With a lot of effort I managed to photograph 2 of them.
Normally I would say that they are very shy and hard to find but then the following happened: When we were about to leave, Paco wanted to show me where he saw about 10 gecko’s. Apparently they were hiding under the boardwalk down to the beach. I turned and saw a carbonelli sitting about 10 meters down. I moved down slowly.
Got real close
Sat down next to him
Nose to nose
I had to try it: too close
In the afternoon we drove up the mountain in Serra do Monchique. We made a walk towards some abandonned houses and stone walls.
I saw one tail of a big lizard: probably an Iberian Green Lizard (Lacerta schreiberi) that has an isolated population in Monchique. But the only other thing I found after turning hundreds of stones was Common Toad:
Back at the car, I discovered a small pond so I had an ultimate try to find some other amphibians.
This only revealed Stripeless Tree Frog and larvae of Iberian Midwife Toad.
On our last day we had to be in Lisbon around noon to catch our plain. Ofcourse that means I had to visit the harbour for a quick search for Madeiran Wall Lizard (Teira dugesii) This went very easy.
The First one was still a bit shy but his friends were not. A lot of variation to be seen.
We made it to the airport well on time. Got in the plane and had to wait quite some time. Then the pilot announced that someone of the ground crew damaged the door when trying to move away the staircase. So in the end we had to switch planes causing hours of delay. It seemed a fitting end to a trip that didn’t went as smooth as anticipated. Well that’s life. Who cares, I did see 5 new species and finally got those malpolon pictures .
Hope you enjoyed reading. Many thanks to Bobby, Jeroen and Wouter.
Bert